**If anyone buys this setup, and has any questions or comments on the install, feel free to post in this thread and I'll try my best to answer them**
Pros: Very high quality, beautiful welds, good fitment, excellent performance, whole assembly has a quality feel to it. Very nice addition to any build, for both looks and performance.
Cons: Very few, the only thing I didn't like was how tight the drain plug has to be, but it could have just been a grommet out of place. Needs 2 bolts that are not included with the kit, stock ones are not usable in that area (I touch on this on the install.) Wiring connections to the fans need to be modified, but that is addressed here, and is easy to figure out even without these instructions.
I have a wiring diagram on the way, and had one made up, but I completely reversed my colors, so look for an update this weekend.
I've noticed since the install, the fans come on less often, indicating that the radiator is more efficient than stock. I have my before printouts from the Consult II, just need to get my "after" readings for exact numbers. The radiator and fan assembly fit very well, and make no noise over bumps.
Install:
Tools Needed:
10mm Socket
Wire Cutters
Screwdriver or Clip Remover
Hose Clamp Pliers
Funnel
2 10x6Mx20 bolts, a little shorter is fine.
1 gallon of coolant, buy concentrate, no need to pay for water.
1 Bucket or drain pan with capacity to catch your entire cooling system contents.
Removing your stock radiator and fan assembly:
1. Make sure your car is cool, and slowly remove your factory radiator cap.
2. Drain coolant using the drain at the bottom drivers side of the radiator. (Remove the plastic trim piece under it, it will save some coolant cleanup)
3. While coolant is draining, remove the 2 radiator mounting brackets at the top. Be careful, the coolant overflow bottle is attached to the passenger side radiator mount, un-clip the overflow hose.
4. Now is a good time to check out your upper radiator bushings for cracks and wear. If you see that the bushings are worn, you should go ahead and replace them, they're a few bucks from your Nissan Dealer. You can continue with your install even if the bushings are bad, they can be replaced later. If you're reading this ahead of time, order the lower radiator bushings as well, they just pop in.
5. Remove your coolant overflow bottle (1 10mm bolt) and tilt it up to fully drain it (this will prevent a mess later, and also ensures your system will be filled with new coolant)
6. Remove over flow hose from where it connects to the radiator fill neck (next to where the cap goes) and set it aside.
7. Using hose clamp pliers, remove the upper radiator hose clamp, then remove the upper radiator hose and tuck it back out of the way. Again, this is a good time to check your radiator hose for cracks and dry rotting. If you see anything suspicious, replace the hose, it's only going to cause problems later. It's also a good idea to replace your clamps.
8. Repeat process for lower radiator hose. There may still be a little bit of coolant in the bottom of the radiator, even with the drain open, so be careful when pulling the lower hose.
9. Remove all electrical connectors (2) from your fan assembly. Also make sure you remove their retaining clips which hold the fan power wires to the fan itself, there will be a few, make sure you get them all or your fans will not come out.
10. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding your fan assembly to your radiator. (Set these aside, they will NOT be re-used)
Your fan and radiator should now be completely free from your car.
11. Carefully remove the fan assembly, don't try to remove the radiator and fan as one piece, you risk damaging your air conditioning system. (Tip: Slightly lift the passenger side of the fan higher than the drivers side, that's the way it needs to come out, the underhood fuse box is in the way on the drivers side). Make sure your lower radiator bushings are still in the car where the bottom of the radiator was, not stuck to the bottom of your old radiator.
12. Remove your radiator, this is how it should look:
13. Remove your Mizu Radiator and Fan Assembly from their boxes.
14. Assemble the radiator and fans together as shown, DO NOT USE THE FACTORY BOLTS HERE, THEY WILL DAMAGE THE RADIATOR. Use 10x6Mx20 Bolt (the same ones that hold in the brackets you removed with your radiator bushings in them)
15. Although you removed your stock radiator and fan separtaely, the Mizu assembly can be installed as one unit. (Tip: Facing the car when installing, install at an angle so that the drivers side goes in first, so it can slide under the fuse box.)
Also, check to make sure that all of the bolts holding the fan covers to it's metal frame are tight, do not over tighten, it will dimple the metal.
The Radiator and Fan assembly should fit in the car exactly like the stock one.
16. Re-connect upper and lower radiator hoses, and re install your upper radiator support brackets.
17. Your cooling fan plugs should look like this, when held with the clip facing upwards, the top 2 wires are power, the bottom 2 are ground.
18. Cut the top 2 wires from your factory harness, splice them together, and connect to the blue wires coming from the Mizu fans. Then, cut the 2 bottom wires from the factory harness, splice them together, then attach them to the black wire coming from the Mizu fans. You may have to cut the connectors from the Mizu wires, and use a weatherproof connector, depending on your wire size. Do not try to stuff your spliced wires into the connector, frayed wires have a less solid connection.
19. Fill up your coolant and resevioir, leave the radiator cap off to bleed your coolant. (Tip: if you're having trouble getting an air bubble out, jack the front of the car up and bleed)
20. Test your wiring before your car even warms up: Unplug your Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT), both fans should come on, the ECM thinks either it's over heating or has a bad ECT sensor, and turns all fans on to be sure that the engine doesn't overheat. This WILL set a check engine light, but it's an easy way to check to make sure everything is working. Make sure that the fans are blowing TOWARD the engine. Put a post-it note on the back side of the fan shroud, and see which way it blows if you don't feel comfortable sticking your hand between the hot exhaust manifold and spinning fan blades
21. After you've confirmed the fans work and air bubbles stop coming out, re install your radiator cap, secure your wiring (exhaust manifolds will easily melt wires), and take for a quick test drive to ensure your fans come on when they are supposed to, if you have any over heating, restart the bleeding process after the engine has cooled to a safe temperature to remove the radiator cap.
Final Result:
This last pic is just showing how much radiators will move with bad radiator bushings, replace them! You don't want your new assembly banging around
I was pushing on the radiator, when installed it should be dead center.
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